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From: Mark Zajac
Subject: bridal fashion
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 16:22:29 -0500
Message-ID: <35A68614.A4ED3B8B@junk.nd.edu>
Hi
I've a friend in England who recently got married. I
made her a little primmer on bridal fashion so that
we'd have a common vocabulary with which she could
describe her dress for me. I'm posting it here just in
case anyone else is faced with describing a wedding
dress at long distance through the internet. I've
tried to give accurate information and realistic illus-
trations but I'm no expert so, don't take the whole
thing too seriously.
Keep a song in your heart
[:-)] Mark
With a fitted bodice giving way to a very full skirt,
the "ballgown" is one of the most striking silhouettes.
I've shown it here (Fig.1) with a "sweetheart" neckline
(curved to a point at the center, like the tip of a
valentine), a puff sleeve and a basque waistline (with a
downward cusp in the front). I might choose a "duchess
satin" (smooth and weighty with a matte finish) for the
bodice, with an organza (sheer and crisp with an airy
look) for the skirt. Belle's gold lamé dress from the
ballroom scene of "Beauty and the Beast" is a good
example of this style.
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Figure.1 Ballgown Figure.2 Empire
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A narrow, gathered skirt, often sheer, falling
dramatically from a very high waistline, is the hallmark
of gowns in the classic "Empire" style. Cascading, as
it does, from just below the bosom, this silhouette
bypasses the bride's waist and hips altogether and is
thus very forgiving. Introduced by Napoleon's
Josephine, this style was in decline but now enjoys a
resurgence, thanks in part to recent screen adaptations
of Jane Austen novels wherein gowns of this sort were
worn to advantage by the likes of Kate Winslet and
Gwyneth Paltrow. The illustration (Fig.2) depicts a
sleeveless, on shoulder bodice, in keeping with
tradition. Though rather sheer, a silk chiffon might be
a good fabric choice - light and airy for summer.
Danger, curves ahead. Cut close from bosom to hip, the
"trumpet" (rhymes with strumpet) leaves little to the
imagination. This is a very unforgiving silhouette.
Compensating for a late start, the skirt flares with a
vengeance at mid thigh. The "mermaid" silhouette is a
variation on this theme, flaring just above the knee
instead. Continuing my amalgam of all things tacky,
I've chosen a halter top (with the dress suspended from
a fabric band, fastened behind the neck). Ideally
suited for exhibitionists, this leaves the congregation
with a good view of the bride's clavicles throughout the
ceremony. Small consolation, there is an economy of
material at the back with very little used. This sort
of thing (Fig.3) might do for a "disco queen" or a
gangster's moll but really has very little to recommend
it (unless you've already chosen a dress in this style,
in which case I'm only joking).
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Figure.3 Trumpet Figure.4 Gore
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The distinctive fullness of a "gore skirt" comes from
wide panels, without pleats or gathers, falling from a
fitted waste to a full hemline. I've designed this one
(Fig.4) to be worn off the shoulder with arm bands
extending from the bodice in place of sleeves. I've
chosen a raised waistline (partly because I'm limited by
the characters on the keyboard). I prefer a douppion
(stiff with an irregular surface texture) for the panels
since the weighty material holds it's shape well and is
fairly resistant to wrinkles.
As it's name suggests, the "ballet russe" silhouette
borrows heavily from a style first seen as a dance
costume at the turn of the century. A number of Degas
paintings feature ballerinas in this mode of dress.
I've shown it here (Fig.5) at floor length (for scale)
though a hemline falling short of the ankles is more
traditional (so as not to obscure the dancer's
footwork). I've chosen spaghetti straps at the shoulder
as they seem to compliment the delicately forlorn
simplicity of the overall look. Perhaps a "poe de soi"
(smooth and lustrous with a papery texture) might do for
the bodice with a fountain of tulle (diaphanous and
wispy) for the skirt.
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Figure.5 Ballet Russe Figure.6 Princess
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The salient feature of the "princess" or "A-line"
silhouette is a pair of seams flowing, in parallel, down
from the shoulders of a fitted bodice to the hem of a
flared skirt. With no clearly defined waistline and the
vertical seams to give an illusion of svelteness, this
style treats most figures with great kindness and
commensurately popular. I've shown it here (Fig.6) with
a cap sleeve. This is what most people have as a mental
image of what a wedding dress looks like.
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